1960s – The first overseas Lee factory goes into production as baby boomers explode onto the clothing scene. Other fitting improvements include the U-shaped saddle crotch and tailored sizing, in which rise and seat proportions are based on waist and inseam measurements. Lee moves onto the international market and shows appreciation for its domestic workers with an innovative pension plan. Fit: Slim through the hip and thigh with a straight leg or slight flare. Department. There, the H.D. Whether outfitting … ... Lee … Light washes, cuffed denim styles, and black jeans were the reigning jeans trends among men, and popular brands included Levi’s, Lee Cooper, and Wrangler jeans. As Alice Wells from Kindred Black tells us, "I’ve had a pair since middle school that miraculously keep stretching and molding to my body as the years go by.". 1925 – The lighter weight, unsurpassed durability and twisted yarns of Lee Jelt Denim propel the Lee story. Lee initiates a strong succession of company presidents and management that carry Lee successfully through the remaining decades of the 20th Century. Lee Co. is woven into America’s western expansion and the world events of the 20th Century. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Jordache, Tictail, your local thrift shop. Lee Jeans is a major international retailer and manufacturer of denim wear and casual wear. Note: Look for ’90s pairs in baby blue washes; if you can find late ’70s Calvins (à la Brooke Shields), snag them. 1957 – Boys’ wear, and boys everywhere, receive a lift with the introduction of Lee’s “Double Knees,” patching relations between worn out moms and their “holy tearers.”. Funny thing is, most of the CKs you"ll find at the vintage store are from the ’90s and fit like actual mom jeans: blouse-y thighs and tapered ankle. Here, categorized by decades and featuring elements of business, leadership and style, is a history of the H.D. The super high waist nips everything in, while a little extra room (and sometimes stretch) through the thigh and its tapered leg make these jeans curve-friendly. Once again, it’s all about the butt here, with a super high waist, slim fit through the thigh, and just enough stretch. 1956 – Leonard W. Staples, nephew of the company’s second chief executive, replaces Benjamin E. Kinney when Kinney replaces chairman C.A. Hoopes jumps at the chance to serve as president of Lee, which he does until his promotion to president of VF Corp. 1973 – Lee strengthens its commitment to the women’s market with the launch of a fitting tribute to women under the Ms. Lee label. 3 Jackets and 1 pair of jeans. Racked is no longer publishing. 3. 1990 – A 200,000 square-foot distribution center opens in Mocksville, N.C., adding efficiency and speed to Lee’s customer service efforts. Lee leads the H.D. The gold standard of vintage Levi’s, 501s look great on every body type. Lee Jeans History – from the VCA board courtesy of e*happy The history of the H.D. All customers get FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. In 1954 they began to make other sportswear in addition to jeans. Fit: Look for pairs from the early ’80s, which have a slight flare that make them the ideal disco jean. 1981 – Automated marking and cutting equipment decrease waste and increase savings. Surprisingly, Lee didn’t begin by making clothing—or manufacturing anything at all for that matter. These high-rise vintage jeans with a slim cut, straight or slightly flared legs are likely to throw you a curve, creating curves you have been dreaming of so long. Lee Flour Mills Co., Lee Hardware Co. and Kansas Ice and Storage. Gitanos were popular in the ’80s and early ’90s as a second-tier discount denim brand; if you couldn’t afford Calvin Klein or Guess but wanted the same look, you wore Gitano. Lee is ministering to the whims of a fickle public, and should not be blamed for this trend. Lee Co. is woven into America’s western expansion and the world events of the 20th Century. Twin towers arise like a double-headed Phoenix in its place. 1942 – Lee keeps rolling with Roland B. Caywood, president until his death. Lee Mercantile Co. solves workwear supply problems by taking matters into its own factory. One of its most popular pieces of clothing, the Lee … Racked has affiliate partnerships, which do not influence editorial content, though we may earn commissions for products purchased via affiliate links. 1920s – The Lee Co. breaks new ground with additional factories, innovative advertising and the first promotional appearance of the popular Buddy Lee doll. Lee Mercantile Co. becomes the major food distributor between Kansas City and Denver. Lee jeans usually come with several labels that show the size of the jeans, the material it is made out of, such as 100% Cotton, or other blends, and the country of manufacturing. Rise: Super high (at or above the belly button). In modern Levi’s, the style number is often included on the care tag inside the jeans. 1981 – As jeans sales reach 502 million units industry wide, the five pocket Lee “Genuine Jeans” become the accepted dress standard across the country. If you choose to size up instead, they're the perfect comfy boyfriend jean — just roll the cuff or crop the bottom. Costs are further clipped by the use of computer technology. If that’s a look you can make sexy, more power to you. Denim becomes the material of choice, accounting for more than 77 percent of jeans sales in 1981. This brand was Wrangler. (Wedgie jeans are styled after vintage for a reason.). Note: If you go for a pair that’s your actual waist size, you can crop these above the ankle for Jesse Kamm or Rachel Comey vibes. 1959 – Lee opens its international division in New York City and receives the U.S. president’s “E” award for its extraordinary export efforts. Thanks to decades of good advertising, Calvin Klein jeans are burned in our collective mind as the sexy denim ideal. Fit: Straight leg, relaxed fit. 1949 – Lee purchases Kansas manufacturer Bruce Co., sells the former Salina grocery warehouse. 1952 – Benjamin E. Kinney serves as president and C.A. The Hair-on-Hide Lee patch is first attached to pants’ backs along the belt line. This article provides an overall guide to the eight details you should be looking out for when putting a production date to vintage Levi’s 501 jeans… 1915 – A plant producing Lee’s innovative one-piece Union-Alls crops up in Kansas City, Kan.; two more pants plants soon follow. 1950s – The Lee clothing concerns expand as the food division is sold. We also occasionally accept products for research and reviewing purposes. Lee Co., Inc. 1946 – Lee acquires Eloesser-Heynemann Co., the San Francisco-based workwear producer of “Can’t Bust Em” work clothes, to address market growth spurred by returning servicemen. 1926 – Three words: Jeans with zippers. 1862 – Lee settles in Galion, Ohio, saves $1,200 in three years as a hotel clerk, and parlays livery and real estate investments into the purchase of Central Oil Co. of Galion. Save yourself the trouble in the dressing room if you have thicker thighs, butt, or a much slimmer waist than hip; these are better at creating curves than accommodating them. 1986 – Lee’s answer to a more casual lifestyle appears in a line featuring a frosted finish and relaxed fit. In 1949, Lee launched the Lady Lee Rider line, a womens wear counterpart to the already existing Rider Line. Sales of notions, furnishings, stationery and school supplies follow. After WWII, Lee began to market their jeans not just as work clothes, but as fashion items. Original Lee Cowboy Jeans From The 1940’s. 1974 – William McKenna leads Lee into the ’80s. ", While the pool may be wide, shopping for vintage jeans isn’t as simple as picking your typical size off the thrift store rack (the size on the tag basically means nothing), and not every pair is created equal: Some of these jeans are going to make your butt look good, and some of these jeans are going to make your butt look really good. 1924 – A 13-ounce denim cowboy pant is introduced in 1924. 1952 – Named after its Chetopa, Kan., facility, Lee develops Chetopa Twill, a tough, sharp-looking new workwear fabric that rubs workers the right way. It’s an original Lee Cowboys Jeans from the mid ’40’s.The first Lee Cowboys Jeans … Breaking down the best brands, their fits, and where to shop them. 1943 – Recognizing the company’s increasing apparel production, “Mercantile” is cut from the company’s moniker, creating The H.D. Lee Co. has led the way in innovation and style. 1980s – The computer age and automated production hit home. Note: Later versions often had some kind of pizzaz, like different colored stitching on the pockets, pink stripes, acid wash, or intense pleating. Along with Levi's and Wrangler, Lee is part of the triumvirate of classic American denim. Reynolds, a former Lee sales manager and founder of the Cowboy Hall of Fame and the Western Heritage Center, helps Lee lasso the western market as Lee Co. chairman. Here’s what to look for, what to expect when you pull them on, and most importantly, where to find them. Note: Look for dark or bright blue washes with cool whisker fades on the thighs. Different brands are also geared toward different bodies. Lee produces a jean befitting the female form with the introduction of Lady Lee Riders. Fashion types are quick to gush over 501s, but 505s are even better. The mercantile’s success spawns the Salina-based H.D. 1971 – Former executive vice president D.F. 1889 – H.D. After the war, in an attempt to compete with the jeans makers Levi Strauss and Lee, they decided to develop a brand name they had acquired in 1943 when they bought the Casey Jones Company. Lee Jeans History – from the VCA board courtesy of e*happy. As if the new color weren’t enough, center creases and narrower legs make the Lee Westerner a high note in styling. It also improves the appearance of Lee’s chauffeur, who had tired of maintaining his clothes as he maintained the car. Lee taps the final frontier, producing infant and toddler apparel. 1903 – A major fire consumes the $125,000 Salina plant and its $450,000 contents. Rise: High-waisted (at the belly button) or low-slung (at or below the hips), depending on how much you do or don’t size up. Fit: Slim through the hip and thigh with a super straight or slightly flared leg; a great option for narrow hips. Fit: Straight leg, classic fit (aka mom jeans). 1986 – The tandem of Richard Lamm, executive vice president and chief operating officer, and Executive Vice President Jim Huntington , team to lead Lee into its centennial as a company with 17 sewing plants, five laundries, nearly 10,000 employees and a daily production capacity of 200,000 jeans. The Union-All idea belongs either to Lee or his chauffeur, depending on whom you ask. By 1965, teens would spend $3.5 billion on apparel. 1930s – Continued growth is a precursor to the cursing heard throughout the Great Depression. A bunch of different brands have made the style, including Oshkosh (yes, for grown-ups) and Gap, but Carhartt is definitely the easiest the brand to find in thrift stores. They’ve got a similar fit, but the zip fly holds everything in if you want to go more fitted, and the thigh is slightly slimmer. 1970s – Advances in technology and the fundamentals of style induce advances that streamline and speed up production without sacrificing quality. 1919-21 – Lee roars into the 20s with a Kansas City, Mo., replacement for the smaller plant in Kansas City, Kan., a new plant and office in Minneapolis, an upgraded plant in Trenton, N.J., and warehouses in San Francisco and Los Angeles. In the 1950’s, Lee introduced the Lee … Levi's Jeans labels can help identify the general date the jeans were made. 1989 – The jeans manufacturer spends about $2 million annually for rocks from the United States, Turkey, Greece and Mexico used in treating fabric. Lee is an American brand of denim jeans, first produced in 1889 in Salina, Kansas.The company is owned by Kontoor Brands, a spin-off of VF Corporation's Jeans wear Division. Look at the tag inside the jeans for the style number if the label is faded. Meanwhile, Levi’s and Calvin Klein are made to accommodate curves, and don’t forget that many of the coolest pairs will come from the men’s section. You won't have much luck finding these at thrift stores. Lee Company. A fake … 1982 – Lee enters the stone age with its stone-washed denim jeans. 1985 – Malcolm Winne serves as president until becoming chairman in 1986. The history of the H.D. 1886 – A keen mind and poor health induce Lee to sell half his interest in Central Oil Co. to John Rockefeller’s Standard Oil Co. Lee stays on as manager until poor health forces him out two years later. As Alice Wells and Jennifer Francis (co-founders of Kindred Black, a secret weapon source for vintage denim) tell us, "there is such variety right now — the beauty of vintage jeans is that they’re so versatile. The Lee Co. once again prevails, opening a new plant in 1936 and later celebrating its 50th anniversary. Rise: High rise (at or just below the belly button) with a nipped-in waist. 1920 – The Lee Co.’s first consumer promotion introduces Buddy Lee, a ceramic figure first found loitering in storefront windows wearing Lee Overalls and a mischievous smile. The workwear classic is so comfortable you almost feel like you’re getting away with something by wearing them in public. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Tictail, Denim Refinery, Urban Outfitters, your local thrift store, curated vintage shops. Edited to add: Forgot to say that except for one, these jackets and the jeans … Especially with vintage Levi’s denim jackets you can potentially make a big score, but there are … Lee Co. Inc. is acquired by VF Corp. in 1969. Some of the most frequently asked questions we get are related to determining the authenticity of vintage jeans, especially vintage Levi’s 501 jeans. Lee now can upgrade its U.S. concerns and enter joint ventures in Scotland, Belgium, Spain, Australia, Brazil and Hong Kong. Your guide to vintage Lee jeans. The Tab with LEVI’S (also known as “Big E”) means the jeans are from before 1971. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Kindred Black, Denim Refinery, your local thrift store, curated vintage shops. 1909 – A newspaper describes Lee as “head of the largest mercantile business in Kansas City and the biggest citizen of Salina, whose name is in every mouth and whose goods are on every shelf.” Lee evidently wears the pants in the Salina business community; he soon will be making them, too. Lee Mercantile company from its 1911 beginnings, and until his fatal heart attack March 15, 1928, in San Antonio, Texas, was the company’s clothing arm, legs and torso. 1959 – Dressy white jeans and jackets arrive in the form of the Lee Westerner. The archives will remain available here; for new stories, head over to Vox.com, where our staff is covering consumer culture for The Goods by Vox. Call it a trend, call it a responsible environmental choice, but vintage denim is a "thing" any way you cut it. Reynolds. According to Janet Sung from Denim Refinery, "Wrangler and Lee have less discrepancy between the waist and hip size, so they’re better brands for ladies with less hip." The presence of a care tag can also help you date your jeans… They made a jeans just for women, the Lady Lee Rider. In 1947 Blue Bell hired a renowned rodeo tailor, Ben Lichtenstein, or Rodeo Ben, to develop a line of jeans … The H.D. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Urban Outfitters, your local thrift shop; buy them new at Army/Navy stores. Innovation begins almost immediately with the production of Union-Alls, a unique, one-piece coverall originally created by sewing a coat and pants together. Nice reproduction jeans, like Levi’s Vintage Collection and Lee Retros, feel quality. 1912 – Losing his shirt and pant sales due to unreliable workwear suppliers from the East, Lee opens his first apparel plant in Salina to produce overalls, jackets and dungarees. According to Karyn Hillman, chief product officer of Levi’s, "the fit of the 501 has evolved over the decades in keeping with style of the time — legs get narrower or wider and rises fluctuate slightly depending upon the year.". Leg: Slim fit with a tapered ankle on pairs from the ’80s; late ’70s pairs have a slight flare. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Kindred Black, curated vintage shops. Established in 1889, the company is headquartered in Merriam, Kansas, and is often referred to as the inventor of the jeans jackets. 1969 – Lee’s shareholders agree to an acquisition by Wyomissing, Penn.-based VF Corp., producer of Vanity Fair intimate apparel. Free Shipping by Amazon. Corporate suitors begin ogling as the clothing company bursts at the seams. A nice alternative to Wranglers, Lee jeans have a similar fit without feeling so Western. Thank you to everyone who read our work over the years. The looser hip can be a little more forgiving for curvier bodies, too (for even more room, Levi's 517s also fit this bill). Note: Hillman reccomends looking for pairs from the 1970s, which have a slimmer thigh for more of a rocker vibe. 1950s – Lee acquires more companies and opens more new plants. With the telltale "W" and tan leather logo stitched on the back pockets, Wranglers do wonders for the booty — especially if you don’t have one. "I still look at the Brooke Shields ads from the early ’80s as my style inspiration every fall," says Francis. You can also see what we’re up to by signing up here. The jackets were priced at $225 ea. 1979 – In its 90th year, Lee realizes its ambition to outfit the whole family with the formation of its Youthwear division, announcing the achievement with the slogan, “Lee Fits America.”. Where to Buy: eBay, Etsy, Tictail, your local thrift shop, curated vintage shops. A nice alternative to Wranglers, Lee jeans have a similar fit without feeling so Western. 1849-1899 – Henry David Lee is born Dec. 9, 1849, in Vermont. Lee Mercantile Co., a wholesale grocery capitalized with $100,000 from Lee’s investment group and reportedly jumpstarted with $25,000 of Salina’s own money. Wide-leg cut short and worn with ankle boots, long and skinny, slouchy boyfriend, flares... there isn’t a way to go wrong. The spelling of the Levi's logo will date the jeans either before or after 1971.To asses more specific dates, you will … Its headquarters is currently in … This vintage pair of Lee Jeans is one of the many treasures from my personal denim archive. Rise: High rise (at or just below the belly button). Mark a straight line across the leg. Rise: Mid to high rise (just below the belly button). Mark on the outer hem where you want the shorts to fall. 1954 – Lee enters the fast-growing leisure sportswear market with Leesures. Fit: Usually a cinched waist with a loose, relaxed fit through the thigh and a tapered ankle. Late 1960s – Lee opens plants in Texas, Virginia, Missouri, Kansas, Georgia and Louisiana. denim and had a rust-proof button fly. And who could forget Kate Moss with Marky Mark? 1889 – Lee settles in Salina, Kan., and starts the H.D. 1964 – Lee opens its first overseas factory in Belgium. 1974 – A 1974 Gentlemen’s Quarterly contains an ad for Lee’s double-knit leisure suit, made of Dupont’s 100 percent Dacron¨ polyester. Whether your ’80s babysitter is still your style icon or you just really fell hard for Stranger Things, you’re going to look good in Jordache. Find a Good Knockoff Levi’s is the most significant denim company in the world; Lee's comes after that. Lee … This trend continued, with basics such as chinos being added to Lee… 1964 – Not since the onset of the zipper has such an innovation gripped the consumer: Lee presses on with a line of “no-iron” permanent press slacks, sold under the “Lee-Prest” banner. Even if you don’t often wield a hammer, carpenter jeans are nice to have in the rotation. 1982 – Robert Gregory runs Lee for a year, then is named president of VF Corp. 1983 – Lee’s softer, stronger Ultra Cord is introduced as “the Ultimate in Corduroy.” Other innovations include Dress Blues, which feature superior color retention; stretch jeans; and Denim Cable-stripes. FIND THE CODE Now look for either a 5-digit STYLE code … 1954 – Lee demonstrates its concern for the welfare of its workers with a pension plan, believed to be the first company-funded program covering all employees. Whether outfitting cowboys in the twilight of the Wild West, supplying an American military entrenched in war, or producing the fashion and durability contemporary culture demands, the H.D. Examine the Inseams: … 1928 – Founder H.D. These are the most accommodating Levi’s for curves thanks to that button fly, which gives more room through the hips and butt. Established in 1889 as a wholesale mercantile of groceries & goods to the West, The H.D. Note: 501s come in all sorts of washes; look for cool touches like paint splatters, rips, or whisker fades. and the jeans were $175. To help you make sense of it all, we pulled together a guide to the brands and styles most commonly found at vintage and thrift stores. The Lee Riders collection featured the now-iconic Lee cowboy jeans as well as a new jacket: the 101J. The “Cowboy” jacket, as it came to be known, was much closer in style to a Levi’s … Plus, the bright blue indigo and slight flare give off a nice ’70s cowgirl vibe. 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